Customer Shopping Guide

Smart Shopping Saddles wants all of our customers to feel confident in knowing exactly what they want to buy and why they want to buy before making a purchase. That is why our team has developed this customer shopping guide so hopefully we can answer as many questions and concerns as possible before our buyers purchase from our store. Smart Shopping Saddles has a team filled with highly knowledgeable individuals that have many years of experience in the equestrian field, and they all have a goal of making sure you the customer has trust in our store and are confident to make any purchase you wish to make! With that being said take a look into our Smart Shopping Saddles customer buyers guide!

We will answer and supply as much knowledge as possible to the best of our ability. Some things that we will cover in this buyers guide are the difference between English and Western style riding, saddles, saddle sizes, tack, and more. Let's begin by listing some important questions that we often hear.

Many people when they first begin horseback riding, they ask a list of common questions, these being:

“What is the difference in English and Western style riding?”
“What style of riding is best for me?”
“Do English or Western products cost more money?”
“Does the style of riding depend on the horse?”
“What is the difference in equipment?”
What are English and Western saddles?
“How do I determine what kind of saddle I need for English or Western?”
“How do I measure to see what size saddle I need”
“What kind of material is best for saddles”

These are all great questions that in the past we even asked ourselves. While there are many more great questions to list we will answer more questions when listing some of the facts and information we have for you throughout this buyers guide so, just follow along!

English and Western Style Riding

Let's begin by discussing English and Western style riding, and what the difference between the two is.

English:

English riding is a form of horseback riding that has been used for centuries throughout the world. Going way back, English horseback riding came from the training and discipline used in military cavalry. These horses needed to learn to obey their riders calmly and quietly. It is now used mainly for sport riding. English horseback riding was designed to have better control of your horse so the horse can perform different combinations of tasks. A combination of three different disciplines used for riding are: dressage, cross-country, and show jumping.

English Saddle designs were specifically developed to allow the horse freedom of movement, whether jumping, running, or moving quickly across rugged, broken country with fences. English saddles consist of many different kinds of saddles. The differences between the styles of English saddles are small but significant. The most important distinctions are the location and therefore the balance of the seat, and the flap length and shape. A saddle used for a discipline where the rider sits more upright with a longer leg, such as in dressage, has a flap that is longer to accommodate the leg, and less inclined forward (as the knee does not need to go forward). The seat will also be closer to the withers, to keep the rider's center of gravity in the correct spot. However, in disciplines where the rider needs shorter stirrups for better balance and security, such as in the jumping disciplines, the saddle flap is moved proportionately forward and shortened, and the seat is moved further back.

English Saddle Size

How to Measure an English Saddle Seat

The best way to measure your seat size is to take the measurement of your thigh from your knee to your buttocks.

Sit in a chair so your knees are at a 90-degree angle with your feet flat on the floor and with your buttocks touching the back of the chair.
Using a measuring tape along your thigh, measure from the back of your knee to the back of your buttocks.

Once you take your measurement, compare it to the chart below to select your saddle size:

Your Measurement	Saddle Size
<16.5”	15” saddle
16.5” to 18.5”	16” saddle
18.5” to 20”	16.5” saddle
20” to 21.5”	17” saddle
21.5” to 23”	17.5” saddle
23+”	18” saddle

English saddles come in many different styles, these being:

All-Purpose or Eventing saddle: developed to allow riders to use one saddle both over fences and on the flat. This type of saddle has a deep seat with a long, but somewhat forward flap. The flaps usually have padding under the leg, for support while jumping. The design is intended to be a compromise between the flatter "close contact" jumping saddle with a forward flap, and deep-seated dressage saddle with a long, straight flap.

The Jumping saddle: The jumping saddle, sometimes called a "forward seat" or "close contact" saddle, is designed for show jumping, hunt seat equitation, foxhunting, and the show jumping and cross-country phases of eventing. Its most distinctive feature is a forward-cut flap that allows for a shorter stirrup length (although not as short as racing stirrups). The flap often has supportive padded knee rolls, especially for show jumping and cross-country, less so for equitation. The balance of the seat is further back and comparatively flat, with the cantle and pommel low so that they do not interfere with the rider's jumping position (variations known as "two-point position" or "half-seat").

Dressage saddle: Dressage saddles have a very straight-cut flap, much longer than a jumping saddle, which accommodates the longer leg position of a dressage rider, who works only on the flat and does not need to jump fences. The pommel is a bit higher and the deepest point of the saddle's seat more forward, all to allow for this longer leg position. The seat is usually much deeper in a dressage saddle than a jumping saddle, and allows the rider to sit comfortably and relax to best influence the horse. The stuffing of the panels is often kept to a minimum in a dressage saddle, to allow a closer feel with the horse. It often has a wider bearing surface than a jumping saddle.

Endurance saddle: The Endurance saddle, originally based on a military or police saddle, is used for the long-distance competition of endurance riding. Its major task is to provide the horse and rider with the comfort and balance needed to cover long distances over rough terrain, sometimes for multiple days. For the rider, the seat is often quilted or padded, and the stirrups are designed with a wide foot tread to reduce fatigue. For the horse, the panels of the saddle are extended to provide a larger area of contact with the back, thus reducing fatigue linked to the pounds per square inch of saddle contact. The saddle has many deep rings along the pommel and cantle that allow the rider to attach various items.

English showing saddle: The show saddle is designed to show off the horse's conformation, most notably the shoulder, and is therefore a minimal saddle with a close fit and straight-cut flap. The seat is very flat, and there are no knee or thigh rolls, so the saddle offers little support to the rider. Like the American Saddle Seat saddle, the English showing saddle has a stirrup bar set farther forward and a cutback pommel that falls behind rather than over the withers, though the seat is less flat and the rider's center of balance is closer to that of a dressage saddle. Many show horses are also presented in better condition than in more athletic disciplines, so the billets are placed to help keep the saddle properly placed on a rounder animal, with the foremost billet on show pony saddles frequently being attached directly to the point of the front arch of the tree; this is known as a "forward point".

Racing saddle: The flat racing saddle is designed to not interfere with a running horse and to be as lightweight as possible (including the stirrup irons). The racing saddle has a very long seat without a dip to it, combined with extremely forward flaps that accommodate the very short stirrups and extreme forward seat used by jockeys. It also has a flat pommel and cantle so nothing interferes with the rider. Flat-racing saddles are built on a half-tree to reduce weight; because the rider spends most of the time up over the horse's withers, there is no need for the protection to the horse's spine that a full tree provides. The stirrups, instead of being looped over stirrup bars, are generally looped directly over the wooden bars of the half tree to prevent the loss of a stirrup during a race and to reduce bulk. This saddle provides very little security, placing the rider in a position that allows a horse the freedom of movement needed to achieve maximum speed, but at the cost of giving the rider less leverage to control the horse, and less protection for the horse's back from a sitting rider. Therefore, racing saddles are not suited for general equestrian riding.

Horse tack is the equipment that goes on the horse for English riding. English horse tack includes breastplates or martingales, horse bridles, reins or bits. English horse tack is made out of leather although some is made out of synthetic or biothane.

Tack Up guide

The first step is to secure the horse with cross ties or tie them to a hitching post. This helps ensure that the horse stays in place and you remain safe while tacking up the horse. For safety, use quick release snaps or slip knots when tying the horse so you can quickly free them if they should get caught in the rope.

Before you tack up your horse, you should always brush him or her. If you put a saddle on over a dirty horse, the dirt can rub underneath the saddle and cause saddle sores. You should also clean the horse’s hooves with a hoof pick and check to make sure none of the horse’s shoes are loose. You should also check the horse over for any signs of swelling or injury.

Place the saddle pad up on the horse’s neck and gently slide it back into place. Slide the stirrups up on the straps so they don’t hit the horse’s side when you equip the saddle. Next, place the saddle gently on top of the saddle pad. Buckle the girth on the right side of the horse. Then move to the left side of the horse and reach underneath the horse and pull the girth toward you. Slowly pull the girth tight and buckle it. Then slide the stirrups down on the straps. Wait a few seconds and check the girth again to see if it needs to be tightened again. If you are using a martingale, buckle that on now.

Untie the horse from the cross ties or hitching post. Put the reins from the bridle over the horse’s neck. This allows you to better control the horse if you need to. Place your fingers on either side of the bit and push the bit into the horse’s mouth. Then slowly slide the headpiece up and over the horse’s ears, and loosely buckle the throat latch.

Walk your horse a few steps. Double check that your bridle is on correctly and that the reins are not crossed. Check the girth of the saddle, tightening it if necessary. Put the reins in your left hand and mount up your horse.

Halter, Lead Rope and Cross-ties

The halter is the headgear in which a lead rope is attached to lead or to tie a horse. Cross-ties are also useful in tying a horse during grooming or saddling and are attached to the D-rings at each side of the halter. Halters and leads may be made of nylon, cotton or leather.

Bridle, Bit and Reins

The bridle is the leather headgear used in riding and consists of a headstall, a metal bit that is placed in the horse’s mouth and reins. There are many types of bits and each is used to accomplish a different purpose. Different English bits include the snaffle (including the full-cheek, loose ring and eggbutt), Pelham, Kimberwicke and gag. The snaffle is one of the more popular bits for beginning riders. English reins are a solid length of leather, usually laced and attached to each side of the bit to control the horse.

Saddle, Stirrup Leathers, Irons, Girth and Saddle Pad

The three main types of English saddles are - dressage, close contact and all purpose. Dressage saddles have a straight flap and allow the rider’s leg position to be lengthened. Close contact saddles have a more curved flap and allow for the bent knee position required for jumping fences. All purpose saddles have a flap with a medium curve, allowing them to be used in nearly any discipline. The stirrup leathers are looped through the irons and attached under the waist of the seat. The girth holds the saddle in place and may be made from leather, neoprene or cotton webbing. Saddle pads are used under the saddle to absorb shock and provide the saddle with a customizable fit.

Where Should You Start?

When it comes to English vs. Western riding one is not better than the other and whether riding and purchasing English or Western it is all preference.

English riding involves a bit more balance and coordination of the reins and legs, so riders may not feel immediately secure in the saddle. The larger Western saddle makes it easier for the beginner to sit comfortably and feel more secure. With that being said start with what you would want to learn first, either way you are in good hands to have a bright future in horseback riding.

Western:

Western riding is considered a style of horse riding which has evolved from the ranching and welfare traditions which were brought to the Americans by the Spanish Conquistadors, as well as both equipment and riding style which evolved to meet the working needs of the cowboy in the American West. At the time, American cowboys had to work long hours in the saddle and often over rough terrain, sometimes having to rope a cattle using a lariat, also known as a lasso Because of the necessity to control the horse with one hand and use a lariat with the other, western horses were trained to neck rein, that is, to change direction with light pressure of a rein against the horse's neck. Horses were also trained to exercise a certain degree of independence in using their natural instincts to follow the movements of a cow, thus a riding style developed that emphasized a deep, secure seat, and training methods encouraged a horse to be responsive on very light rein contact.

Let's discuss different Western riding disciplines within Western riding.

Trail Riding

Probably one of the most popular forms of western riding, trail riding can be a general term used to refer to any ride away from the yard and through the countryside (whether open fields, mountains, deserts, or a mix of different terrains) or it can also mean a particular class or event where you compete against other riders and are judged on your performance.

Western Pleasure

Some people wrongly refer to western pleasure as trail riding (after all you’re riding for fun and enjoyment) but the western pleasure discipline is actually a competitive event where all participants ride at the same time and perform at a variety of paces such as walk, jog, and lope, although some breed-specific events will also ask for the horses to perform an extended jog and lope.

Barrel Racing

Regarded as a rodeo event, barrel racing is a high-speed competition where the horse and rider have to negotiate a three-leaf clover pattern around a set of three barrels as fast as they can. The layout of the barrels doesn’t change but the size of the arena can vary and will also play a large part in how quickly the race can be run. The record time for a race is 13.46 seconds but anything between 15 and 20 seconds is considered a good time.

Reining

Sometimes referred to as high-speed dressage, reigning, which is recognized by the FEI, is considered by many to be the western equivalent of dressage. Reining is designed to showcase many of the maneuvers that originated from working cattle and includes maneuvers such as:

Sliding stops – The horse’s front is mobile but their hind legs slide and they lower their head and neck.
Spins – This is where the horse pivots at high speed around one of his back feet.
Rollbacks – These involve the horse coming to a stop, turning 180° to the outside before immediately loping off.
Circles – Small circles are done at a slow lope while larger circles are done at a faster lope.
Lead changes – This is where the horse changes lead in the middle of the arena.

Cutting

Originating from the need for working ranchers to isolate a cow (for branding, inspection, etc) from the rest of the herd, cutting is a great demonstration of a horse’s natural ‘cow sense’ – a trait that’s highly prized amongst western horses. Unlike a lot of other western disciplines, cutting is all about the horse instead of the rider with lower marks being awarded if the rider is deemed to have interfered with the horse.

Roping

If you’ve ever seen a western movie with cowboys throwing lassos around a steer’s horns you’ll have a good idea of what roping is about. It’s a real test of teamwork with the horse tracking a free-running calf or steer while the rider lassos the animal, jumps off, and then restrains it. There are different events depending on whether you and your horse are working alone or in a team.

Now that we have covered the different kinds of Western disciplines, lets now discuss the Western saddles.

Roping saddle: Heavy, sturdy saddle that usually has a thicker horn for securing a rope, low cantle, and slick fork that allows the rider to dismount quickly when needed.
Rodeo bronc riding saddle: Hornless, deep seated saddle with wide swells, having small fenders with oxbow style stirrups, originally designed and made by rodeo innovator Earl Bascom in 1922.
Cutting saddle: Has a deep seat and wide swells allows the rider to sit deep and securely through sharp stops and turns.
Reining saddle: Has a deep seat to allow the rider to sit deeply and more freely, swinging fenders for more leg movement on the rider's part.
Working cowhorse saddle: Highly versatile and designed to work for both reining and cutting for reined cow horse events.
Barrel racing saddle: Lightweight saddle with wide swells and high cantle which allows the rider to sit securely but also allows the horse to perform fast sprints and sharp turns.
Endurance saddle: Lighter weight than most western saddles, often without a horn, has a tree that spreads the rider's weight out over a large area of the horse's back, thus reducing pounds per square inch. Often has stirrups hung slightly farther forward, to allow the rider to get off the horse's back when traveling at faster speeds. Designed for long rides at faster speeds than a trail saddle.
Trail saddle: Designed for maximum comfort of the rider as well as a good fit for the horse, features deep, padded seat, designed for long rides at slower speeds.
Show saddle: May be based on roping, cutting, or other trees, but is characterized by additional leather tooling and silver decoration. Usually features a deep, padded seat that allows the rider to sit quietly and give the appearance of a smooth ride.

Western Saddle Size Guide

All western saddles come with a stated seat size. Seat size simply measures the distance from the base of the horn to the top middle of the cantle. This distance is then expressed as a size in half-inch increments from 12 inches to 17 inches

If you know your seat size in an English saddle, a good rule of thumb is to choose a Western saddle with a seat size two inches smaller than your typical English saddle size. Sit in the Western saddle. There should be about four inches between your body and the swell of the saddle.

A good-fitting saddle will rest right in the 'pocket' on the horse's back and will never rock up and down from front to back, If the saddle passes these checks, go ahead and put your pad on the horse and cinch up the saddle. For your horse's comfort, always pull your pad up into the gullet.

Smart Shopping Saddles hopes that you have learned something you may not have known before after reading this buyers guide. Always feel free to contact us on our Contact Us page if you need any help or have questions about things we may have missed in this buyers guide. As always we care about you and your horse so we want you to never hesitate to allow us to assist you in any need you have!

We hope you have the best shopping experience possible with us at Smart Shopping Saddles!

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